Nyabiheke

Today we visited Nyabiheke refugee camp, one of the sites where Jess works. We got there a little after noon, stopped by the office to pick up some things and greet everyone, then headed into the main part of camp. Nyabiheke is one of the smaller camps, with just under 5,000 residents, mostly from the Congo. UNHCR (the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) is in charge of these camps, and I must say, is running quite an operation, along with the ARC (American Refugee Committee), whom Jessica works for. Of course, the conditions are quite basic, but it is clear that the staff cares very deeply about the refugees and that they are supporting them as best they can. The head nurse showed us around their medical facilities, including the wards for men, women, and children, as well as the maternity ward (where, Jess tells us, they found a huge snake lurking not long ago – not a place I would choose to give birth - if I had the choice). The men’s ward was empty; in the children’s ward was a young boy who had injured himself falling out of a tree, as well as a couple other kids with malaria. Everyone in the women’s ward had either malaria or typhoid or both. (HIV prevalence in the camp is extremely low – well under 1% at last count – the main medical problem by far is malaria). The omnipresent UNHCR tarp that acts as floor, walls, and ceiling in buildings throughout the camp cast a greenish glow over everything, making our surroundings feel a little eerie yet somehow appropriate.

While at Nyabiheke we got to meet some lovely people, including Jess’ buddy Phisto, who was struck by lightning while fleeing the Congo to join his mother and sisters in the camp and speeds around quite well on his crutches, as well as a woman who has miraculously survived to 105 years old, and Kevin, possibly the cutest baby alive (and who turns out to be, in fact, a girl).

Today’s visit, along with our trip yesterday to the genocide memorials at Nyamata and Ntarama, really brought home the unbelievable strength and resilience of the people here. I’m so lucky to be able to witness, however briefly, individuals living lives of such extraordinary patience and courage.